Florentine

Specifications
| Weight | 140.91 carats* |
|---|---|
| Dimensions | 30.7 x 26.1 x 19.81 mm** |
| Color | Yellow |
| Weight of Rough | Unknown |
| Origin | Golconda, India |
| Date Found | c. 1610 |
| Current Location | Unknown |
*Weight has always been reported as 137.27 carats; however, these are old carats. Weight listed here is modern carats.
**Dimensions are from measuring the replica.
Details

Florentine Pair: Left stone is modeled after a hatpin photo c. 1900 supposedly of the Florentine and described by Tillander. Right stone is modeled after a line drawing by Tavernier. Photo by Fred Ward.
Among the rare historical diamonds of the world, few are as elusive—or as debated—as the Florentine Diamond. With a history that stretches back centuries, this remarkable gem has been referenced in drawings, manuscripts, and the occasional blurred photograph. Yet, despite its fame, the exact details of its shape, cut, and final fate remain an enigma—cementing its place among the most famous diamonds in history.
Also known as one of the legendary diamonds of Europe, The Florentine was widely believed to have originated in the 15th or 16th century. One of the earliest documented references comes from the famous gem merchant Tavernier in the 1600s. Over the next two centuries, figures such as Cletscher and Bauer attempted to capture its form through detailed line drawings. Each source portrayed a slightly different version of the stone—with similar facet patterns but differing outlines, leading to ongoing debate about its true appearance.

A particularly intriguing piece of evidence is a low-resolution photograph taken around 1900 of a large gemstone set into a hatpin—believed by some experts to be the Florentine itself. If authentic, it closely resembles several of the historical drawings, and offers key insight into the gem’s design: a Double Dutch Rose cut, characterized by triangular facets that mirror across the top and bottom. This symmetrical style is confirmed by every reliable sketch and description of the diamond.
By the close of World War I, The Florentine had vanished—disappearing from historical records entirely. Its absence has only deepened its allure among collectors, historians, and gemmologists searching for diamonds with fascinating pasts.
Reconstructing a Lost Icon
In 1981, a meticulous effort began to reconstruct the Florentine as accurately as possible—using Tavernier’s original description as a guide. Although several printed sources featured line drawings of the diamond, variations caused by scaling and reproduction made them unreliable for precise modelling. The breakthrough came with the discovery of an original manuscript housed in a U.S. university library—just an hour away from the researcher at the time. Every dimension and facet of the replica had to be manually calculated, as this was well before the advent of computer graphics or CAD modelling. The process was rooted in traditional gemmological methods: calculating index settings, solving trigonometric equations, and using the reported weight of 137.27 carats to estimate the volume and shape.
Based on diamond’s specific gravity of 3.51 g/cm³, it was determined that half of the stone would weigh approximately 3.91 grams. The silhouette was treated as two connected cones—a low-angle cone on top of a steeper truncated one. The final challenge was solving the equation:
Here, s and y represent the angles of the lower and upper cones. Since the equation contains two unknowns, iterative methods were required to find a valid solution. After extensive modelling, it was discovered that s must fall within a narrow range of 54°–56°, enabling the entire geometry to be defined.
This years-long reconstruction effort occurred in parallel with another challenge—acquiring a large, flawless piece of CZ (cubic zirconia) in the correct colour and quality. At the time, stones of such size and clarity were nearly impossible to find, and the wait time allowed the complex modelling to be fully resolved.
The result is a faithful recreation of a long-lost masterpiece, reflecting the meticulous labour, historical research, and technical precision needed to bring a ghost of gemmological history back to life.
Though it may never resurface, the Florentine remains one of the most intriguing famous diamonds with history—a treasure that sits comfortably alongside the Koh-i-Noor, The Hope Diamond, and other ancient diamonds with royal significance. As with many diamonds from history’s most famous jewels, it is the mystery that gives it its magnetism—a gem whose story may yet be unfinished.
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